The colour is a dark ruby, impenetrable. The wine needs to breath and breath and breath, much more than I allowed it to. As a result, the nose took ages to develop the wonderful jammy black fruits and plum, together with the oaky notes, a touch of leather, the marvellous hint of dark chocolate and perhaps some cloves too. Overall, nose is (moderate to) intense, fine and complex. It has a powerful, spicy character. In the mouth there is an initial sweetness of dark and jammy red fruits, always supported by a consistent acidity, which doesn't come later but is actually parallel to the fruity notes, following them all along the tasting. At the end the taste make a smooth turn. It is a strange, astonishing effects. The sweet and fresh fruitiness of the beginning slowly fades. There is a moment in which the acidity dominates. Then the tannin steps in, carpeting all the back palate with a soft and elegant astringency, which smoothly mingles with the acidity, producing a succulent after-taste. It is at this point that a bitter, dark chocolaty flavours steps in, reproducing the exact sensation that a bite of proper 80% fondente can produce. The impressive thing is that everything is still there: the freshness of the fruit, though much more subtle, still pops in. Their sweetness too, still lingers in, in dialectic engagement with the chocolaty bitterness. The acidity is always there too, proverbial scaffolding of the whole experience.
This is a wonderful wine, certainly not cheap but reasonably priced (18£), which reproduces some of Amarone’s sensations without however being a mere low-key imitation of the more famous (and pricey) relative, but rather showing its real character, as an original member of the corvina family (80% Corvina and 20% Syrah). The wine can age and age. Cannot even imagine how Allegrini's Amarone could be.